Superfly held sway over movie-inspired street styles for more than a decade until Spike Lee's comedies of manners took over the turf, not gentrifying but gentlefying it. By 1990 Lee had set up his own Spike Lee Joint in Brooklyn, selling the baseball caps, glasses, T-shirts, tube sox, and tennis shoes his characters-in this film, Mars "baby please" Blackman-made the right thing to wear. She's Gotta Have It is a sassy satire on the sexual marketplace that has deeper resonances in the way people sell themselves to themselves. Amid the artistic fringe of Brooklyn blacks, Ms. Nola Darling (Tracy Camilla Johns) is in an excellent position to dissect the sexual psyche of the black American male: there are those who want to own her, and those who want to respect her and then own her. Like Nola, Spike Lee loves a parade and from the vantage of Nola's bed presents an in-your-face sociological analysis. (JB)